Crusty Russ wrote:

> Before beginning my usual treatment of spraying the tools with LPS,
> giving them a good scrub to remove rust and pits, followed by a spray of
> WD40 or silicone spray, I thought it would be a good idea to see how
> many of you who live a bit closer to the marine environment deal with
> this problem.

I carry several tool boxes aboard the Island Girl at all times and, as you
can imagine, fight a never ending battle against rust.  I wish I could share
a good way to deal with the problem, but the best I've been able to do is
keep rust at bay.  The secret is cleaning, drying and lubrication.
1. I keep my tools clean.  Grease won't hurt tools, but it will cover up
problems.  In the bottom of a tool box, it can be hard to tell the
difference between rusty and dirty.  Since I use my tools regularly,
particularly since with the older boat I purchased, I can catch problems
early.
2. I do everything I can to keep my tools dry.  If they get wet, they get
dried before replacing them in the box with other tools.  One wet tool can
promote rust on an entire box of tools.  I'm particularly careful with tools
that have been subjected to salt water.  Drying is not enough.  They get
rinsed in fresh water, dried, then lubricated.  More on lubrication in a
minute.  All of my tools are stored in the cabin of my boat, in plastic
containers of one sort or another.  The containers aren't air tight, so the
tools get exposed to salt air, but I try to keep it to a minimum.  The cabin
of this boat, unlike the previous one, stays pretty dry.
3. Lubrication is the key.  I've found three products that work well, one of
which is much easier than the others.  Marvel Mystery Oil may be the best
rust preventative product I've come across.  A light coat allowed to dry
without being touched, seems to keep tools rust free better than anything
else I've come across.  WD-40 does well when used the same way and is easier
to use since it's most commonly purchased in a pressurized can.  There is
always a couple of cans of WD-40 on my boat.  Silicon grease also works, but
it's not convenient.  I learned how well it worked on a live aboard when my
knifes started to show signs of rust.  Lacking the normal stuff, I used what
I had at hand, sucessfully.  I have found that any of these lubricants is
effective for a long time . . . until I use the tool, including knives.
When used, the film is broken, removed, whatever, and must be replaced if
the tool is to remain safe.

For dive tools, that's worked for me.  I keep my dive tools in dry boxes,
plastic boxes with O ring seals.  Combined with lubrication of tools that
should be lubricated, a drybox keeps the salt air away, helping me keep my
tools working like new for as long as possible.  Needless to say, you should
consider how things are stored.  Anything with a petroleum lubricant on it
should be allowed to dry throughly before being put into a drybox.  Anything
that may be attacked by petroleum vapors should be in a baggy.  Anything to
be used for anything rated for oxygen service should be in a separate
drybox.

Lee
My final hint is when to lu