> I am hoping to put together a diving vacation with a selected group of
> friends along the coast of Cuba.  We have no intention of violating US
> law, and are already exploring the possibility of obtaining official
> permission to visit Cuba on an educational project.  On the other hand,
> I understand that several dive operators out of the Keys, Mexico, and/or
> the neighboring islands are now running trips in Cuban waters that do
> not require Uncle Sam's permission.  Does anyone have experiences diving
> Cuban waters that they would care to share?  Any recommendations for
> dive operators, or any ones to watch out for?  Any tips based upon
> experience to ensure a stress-free trip?

As you're probably aware, enforcing OFAC regulations is part of my job.  I
don't directly have anything to do with individuals who travel to Cuba, but,
because I deal with companies doing business with Cuba and/or facilitating
it, I keep more or less current on the regulations.

If you want to visit Cuba, by all means do so and, as you suggest, do it
legally.  Your idea to go based on education is not bad, but there may be
easier ways.  One of my friends visited Cuba with a religious group.  He is
a Mormon and it turns out the Mormons have a history in Cuba.  He wasn't a
diver, but he could have been.  Another common way to visit legally is for
humanitarian purposes.  More than one group has visited Cuba with boxes of
medical supplies, clothes, whatever they could figure out might qualify an
humanitarian aid to the Cuban people.  Things clearly not of interest to the
Cuban government are particularly good.  If I'm not mistaken, this is how
most of the legal dive trips are done.  As far as who is doing it legally,
you'll have to research that one yourself.  My work makes it a real poor
idea for me to go, legally or otherwise.

The best I can do is point you in the right direction for finding out more.
Here are my suggestions:
1. rec.scuba - ask about legal trips.  There are more than a few people in
that group that have been, some legally.  There may even be some operators
listening in who actually know who is doing what.  You might try
UK.rec.scubs, but remember, people in the UK are not restricted.  What they
can do, may not be legal for you.  The same applies to Canadians.
2. OFAC Website - OFAC is on line and makes all the information on travel to
Cuba available.  Don't stop with the brochure.  The Cuban sanctions are some
of the most complex in OFAC.  There are quite a few publications dealing
with the subject.  Do your homework before you contact them in person or
e-mail.  The more you know about the issues, the more likely you are to
reach a cooperative ear.  Their website is at
http://www.treas.gov/offices/enforcement/ofac/ .

If you go, when you get back, I'd love a trip report.  If/when we ever lift
the sanctions, I'll be one of Cuba's first visitors.  Like the Mormons, my
family has ties to the island.  My grandfather was stationed there back when
U.S. immagration had a Cuba office.

Lee